THE FIRST THING YOU NEED TO DO IS GATHER ALL THE PARTS NECESSARY TO COMPLETE THE JOB.

7/8” X 18 TPI RIGHT HAND TAP
(McMASTER CARR, TRAVERS TOOL, ETC)                                 approx $ 25.00
7/8” X 18 TPI LEFT HAND TAP
(McMASTER CARR, TRAVERS TOOL, ETC)                                 approx $ 80.00
7 DEGREE (1 ½” PER FT.) TAPERED REAMER
(there are quality differences, so shop appropriately)
               BC Bronco                       $60/$110
                         Afco  # 80770       $120
Stock Car Products #R8201        $80
                  Goodson #TR-216-2  $50
                  Snap On  # R121         $37

85 K30 1 TON 4WD STEERING PARTS
                   McQuay Norris PART NUMBERS
                                             ES2233L $25.99 (draglinks)
                                             ES2234R $23.99
                                             ES2027L $18.99 (tie rod ends)
                                             ES2026R $20.99

1.25" .219 wall DOM tubing (figure about 4.50 per ft min)
    TIE ROD  = approx. 42"(mine was 39")
DRAG LINK = approx. 30" (mine was 26")

7/8 X 18 JAM NUTS (2 left and 2 right hand thread)
(chebby dealer, used, napa??)

    NOW MARK THE KNUCKLES AT THE CENTER WHERE THE EXISTING TIE RODS GO THRU, MEASURE FROM MARK TO MARK AND WRITE IT DOWN. (TR O/A) (TIE ROD OVERALL)
    NOW MEASURE FROM THE RIGHT KNUCKLE TO THE PITMAN ARM (CENTER, WHERE THE TIE ROD END GOES THRU) AND WRITE IT DOWN. (DL/KNUCKLE)
    NOW YOU CAN BEGIN TO MEASURE AND CUT THE TUBING.
_{**THESE MEASUREMENTS WILL VARY DUE TO YEAR OF D44, KNUCKLE TYPE, PITMAN ARM TYPE, ETC.}
    PUT THE JAM NUTS ON THE LEFT AND RIGHT HAND TIE ROD ENDS ABOUT WHERE YOU WANT THEM TO END UP.
_{**REMEMBER TO LEAVE ROOM FOR ADJUSTMENT IN AND OUT. I PUT ABOUT 2/3 IN THE TUBE FOR A LITTLE MORE STRENGTH.}

THEN MEASURE TO THE CENTER OF THE TIE ROD END STUD. DO THIS ON THE LEFT SIDE (ML), WHICH IS THE SHORT ONE, AND THE RIGHT SIDE (MR), WHICH IS THE LONGER ONE WITH THE HOLE FOR THE DRAG LINK.

     ADD THE TWO MEASUREMENTS TOGETHER AND SUBTRACT IT FROM THE ORIGINAL TIE ROD MEASUREMENT YOU TOOK EARLIER (KNUCKLE TO KNUCKLE) THIS WILL BE THE MEASUREMENT TO CUT THE TUBING AND THREAD IT.
_{**REMEMBER 1 SIDE LEFT HAND THREAD AND THE OTHER SIDE RIGHT HAND THREAD.}
AFTER CUTTING, TAPE THE TIE ROD ENDS ON EACH END WHERE THEY BELONG AND CHECK TO SEE HOW IT FITS.
 
 

    NEXT IS THE DRAG LINK MEASUREMENT. MEASURE FROM THE CENTER OF THE HOLE TO THE CENTER OF THE STUD. MARK THIS MEASUREMENT ON YOUR EXISTING TIE ROD ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE.
    THEN MEASURE FROM THE PITMAN ARM CENTER TO  THIS MARK. WRITE IT DOWN (EX: DL O/A -36” = DRAG LINK OVERALL). RUN THE JAM NUTS ON THE DRAG LINK ENDS AND MEASURE FROM NUT TO STUD CENTER ON EACH ONE. ADD THEM TOGETHER AND SUBTRACT IT FROM THE MEASUREMENT YOU JUST AQUIRED (DL O/A). CUT THE TUBING AND THREAD IT .
_{**REMEMBER 1 SIDE LEFT HAND THREAD AND THE OTHER SIDE RIGHT HAND THREAD}
CLEAN ALL THE THREADED TUBING AND MAKE SURE ALL THE END PCS THREAD IN NICELY.
TIME TO REAM !!
THIS IS A SLOW , OILY PROCESS. CHECK THE DEPTH FREQUENTLY WITH A TIE ROD END.  YOU WANT ENOUGH DEPTH TO GET THE NUT ON WITH THE COTTER PIN. DO THIS TO THE KNUCKLES AND THE PITMAN ARM.

YOU'LL NEED TO CHANGE YOUR STEERING STABILIZER SHOCK MOUNT TOO. I'VE SEEN IT MOUNTED TO THE D-44, OR YOU CAN JUST MAKE ONE TO FIT. THE SIZE WOULD DEPEND ON WHICH SET UP YOU HAVE (TIE ROD OVER, F150 BOX, TOYO BOX ETC)

some pics of the ROCKROD set-up in action
http://www.vintagebronco.com/coby/tierod/

GO FOR IT, IT'S EASY !! MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE.....